Built in 1805 by the raja of Mataram, Anak Gede Karangasem, the gardens of Taman Narmada (daily 7am-6pm), served by frequent bemos to and from Mandalika terminal, Sweta (10km), include a rather indistinct replica of Gunung Rinjani and its crater lake, made for the raja when he became too old to claim the real volcano to make his offering to the gods. More cynical commentators claim that he built the lake here to lure local women to bathe while he sat in his pavilion and watched.

On the south side of the main road in NARMADA, opposite the bemo terminal and daily market (well worth a look if you're there early in the day) and surrounded by a high wall, the gardens are popular as a day-trip from the city area for local families, while most tourists see it as a quick stop on an organized tour. However, if you have more time, it's a good place to laze around, especially if you go early before the tour groups descend. The terraces and the lake are extensive and well maintained, and there's a swimming pool as well as paddle boats for rent.

The Balinese temple here, Pura Kalasa, is the focus of the celebration of Pujawali, usually in November or December, when offerings of ducks are made to the lake. 'Me aqueduct at the side of the lake is one of the few remains of Dutch developments on the island during their period of occupation (1894-1942).

Karang Bayan
Selling itself as a "traditional village", KARANG BAYAN, 3km north of the main cross-island road, is easily accessible from Narmada or Lingsar with your own transport. It's a jumble of old wooden houses and newer concrete ones, laid out on either side of a main path. While firmly on the tourist trail for day-trippers (one old house sports doors supposedly three hundred years old and a range of items used in local rituals), it actually has little to offer apart from the boxes woven by villagers out of fine grass. If you want to visit a village, there are more picturesque ones elsewhere on the island, where you'll see people living more obviously traditional fives.

Suranadi
Situated about 300m above sea level, SURANADI is 7km north of Narmada, at the site of a freshwater spring. The temple here is a holy pilgrimage site for Hindus, as the Hindu saint, Nirartha, is believed to have located the springs while in a trance. Almost next to the temple is a small forest area, the Hutan Wisata Suranadi. This houses a pair of elephants, the male called Rinjani and the female Senggigi, given to Lombok by the government on the fiftieth anniversary of Independence. They are the only elephants on the island and, having come from. the famous Way Kambas elephant training school in southern Sumatra, are able to perform tricks, play football and give rides.

Suranadi Hotel has accommodation in an attractive old bungalow with high ceilings, situated in lovely grounds with a tennis court and swimming pool. Its rather overpriced, however, with shared bathrooms for the, cheaper rooms and meals in the attached restaurant are also expensive. The swimming pool is open to non-residents (Rp2500). Far better value is available In Tertai Cottages (no phone)1km outside the village; take the road between Pura Suranadi and Suranadi Hotel. Situated in a great rural location, accommodation is in cottages in a large garden with three swimming pools and a terrace with fabulous views.

In a completely different league, the GEC Rinjani Country Club sits about 1km from the main cross-island road at Golong (there's a sign at Sedau, 5km east of Narmada) or about 3km by the back road from Suranadi. All accommodation is excellent quality, has hot water and air-conditioning and there are tennis courts and a large swimming pool (Rp10,000 for non-residents). This is the only golf course on the island and has eighteen holes. Green fees are US$40 during the week and US$60 at weekends and there's a US$10 caddy fee; guests get thirty percent discount. Clubs (Rp50,000) and shoes (Rp20,000) are available for rental. You'll pay fifteen percent tax and service on top and must make reservations in advance.

Seseot
If you have your own transport, you can reach the attractive village of SESEOT from Suranadi. Head up the road that goes past the Hutan, turn right at the T-junction and continue uphill. About 2km along here, in the tiny hamlet of Gontoran, Surya Homestay (no phone) has a couple of rooms in a small replica lumbung barn. After another 3km you'll reach Seseot itself, where the presence of a temple as well as a mosque testifies to the mixed religion of this small but bustling village in the hills. For the casual visitor it's the situation next to the river that's the draw, with good views across the fields and plenty of places for a quiet picnic beside the river - either follow the path beside the mosque down to the river or cross the rickety road bridge at the top of the village to the other side