The only village with any degree of tourist development on the south coast, KUTA 54km from Mataram. and 32krn from Praya, is a tiny fishing village situated just behind the west end of Putri Nyale beach. It's rapidly becoming the favourite choice of travellers to Lombok seeking a few days by the sea, without the burgeoning tourist facilities of Senggigi or the crowds on the Gili Islands. The coast around the village is lovely: Seger and Tanjung Aan beaches are within walking or cycling distance and, with your own transport, the whole of the south coast is wide open for exploration.

Coming from the west buses and bemos run to Praya from Mandalika terminal, Sweta. From Praya, bemos ply either to Sengkol, where you can change, or right through to Kuta. From the east of Lombok, bemos run to Praya via Kopang on the main cross-island road. Perama also offers tourist shuttles to Kuta from all destinations on Bali and Lombok. Services are three times daily from Kuta (Rp55,000) and Ubud (Rp50,000), twice daily from Senggigi (Rp20,000), Padang Bai (Rp35,000) and Candi Dasa (Rp40,000) and daily from other areas including Bangsal (Rp25,000).

The Resort

At the end of a wide, white-sand, although fairly shadeless beach, with rocky headlands at either end, the tiny fishing village of Kuta has spread east as a variety of small losmen have grown up. Apart from Sunday when the lively market takes place, the area is the ultimate in peace and quiet. The big swell here makes the sea good for surfing (see box opposite), but there's no diving or snorkeling; a surf shop on the seafront repairs and rents boards.

There are several moneychangers near the losmen and the Perama office in Segare Anak bungalows also does exchange, but expect about ten percent less for your money than you'd get in Mataram. If you want to book tourist shuttle tickets, head to the Perama office (7am-10pm), attached to Segare Anak. They have daily departures to destinations on Bali and Lombok, although some require a stopover. Sample fares are Kuta, Bali Rp.50,000, Ubud Rp.45,000, Candi Dasa Rp.40,000 Lovina Rp.60,000 and Mataram or Seaggigi Rp.15,000. Segare Anak can also book Mabua Express or Bounty Cruise tickets back to Bali. Segare Anak is also a postal agent and you can use them for poste restante (get mail addressed to you at Segare Anak, Kuta Beach, Lombok Tengah, Nusa Tenggara Barat 8357, Indonesia); otherwise, the nearest post office is in Sengkol. There's a wartel in the village (8am-11pm) offering phone and fax services and Internet access (Rp800 per minute) and Anda bungalows also have Internet access (Rp850 per minute with a minimum of 5min). Ask at your accommodation or at Perama if you want to charter transport (Rp60,000-80,000 for a one-way trip to Lembar, Mataram. or Senggigi) or rent motorbikes (Rp25,000-35,000 per day).